Day four, our third full day, saw much more variety than the previous day. We'd spent the prior afternoon investigating Santa Elena Canyon. The hike up Emory Peak had pretty well worn us out, so we'd decided to take an easy walk down to the vista overlooking the iconic canyon.
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| Santa Elena Canyon |
With a full night's rest in us, though, we were ready to tackle more challenging hikes, the first being down to the Window. The Window is an amazing overlook that turns into a waterfall in the wet season.
We could immediately tell this hike would be different than those we'd been on so far. Rather than climbing to a peak we were descending in a canyon. One of the interesting elements of Big Bend is that you're never really sure where you are in elevation. The whole time you're walking down this canyon you'd swear you were "down in it," only to reach the end and find a 100 foot drop. I suppose that's where the term "sky island" comes from.
Regardless of elevation we were following a trail down a valley and it was markedly different from the mountain hike or river run of yesterday. The brush was much thicker, there were many more birds, you could just feel the life. Soon into the hike we spotted some blue, or scaled quail, the first I'd ever seen. They're a Southwest bird, and something I was hoping to see on this trip.
The other Southwest species I was hoping to spy was the black bear. Black bears have been pushing their way back into West Texas from Mexico in recent years and Big Bend has a pretty reliable population. I'd mentioned to Kenny that morning that I'd really like to see either a mountain lion or black bear. I had once worked in Alaska where black bears were very common, but the though of walking up on a black bear in Texas seemed rare and unlikely.
Little did I know I would soon see my bear. We were walking along the dry creek bed, not in it, but next to it. I was in front, rounded a bend, and saw a black bear standing the the road. I look back at Kenny and say "there's a bear!" Kenny, of course, does not believe me. I may have a slight reputation for loving to play jokes on my friends.
Regardless of Kenny's belief or lack thereof the bear was standing in the trail. He must have known I was there but didn't even look back as he continued down the trail and rounded a bend. I sneaked my way forward, unwilling to rush up on an unsuspecting bear and risk surprising him. Right as I reached the bend I heard clattering among the rocks in the dry wash letting me know the bear had slipped off.
Kenny was by my side at this point and thoroughly convinced I was pulling his leg. "Oh stop joking around, Tommy." Desperate to prove the bear's reality I started searching for tracks. Kenny thought this was just another ploy to sell the joke, but in short order a track was found.
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| Big Bend Black Bear Track |
Nothing dispels doubts like physical proof! Suddenly, Kenny was all eyes, scanning the brush for bears. I'd heard the clattering of rocks, which I'd assumed came from the dry creek, so we kept our attention in that direction. After another ten minutes of walking I heard a crash of brush, not from the creek, but from up the mountain. Looking up the mountain I spot a bear, sitting on a ledge under a tree.
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| Big Bend Black Bear |
Honestly, I don't think this is the same bear as previously seen. This bear looked much smaller, much leaner. We stood there and watched the bear for several minutes; he stood there and watched us right back. He didn't seemed particularly bothered by us, but he didn't seem quite comfortable either. After several pictures we continued on our way.
The trail to the Window narrows continuously from start to finish, culminating in a tight corridor that is worn smooth by years of flowing water. The effect of this narrowing is a nice, continual breeze to cool you on a warm morning. The view from the Window is a bit limited, but being able to stand so close to the edge is the real attraction.
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| The Window |
After the Window Trail we decided to hike the Lost Mine trail. This area of the State was once believed to contain precious metal deposits and there was rumored to be a "lost mine" of immeasurable wealth, giving the trail it's name. The only mining I'm aware of was the cinnabar mining around Terlingua for the production of mercury.
The Lost Mine trail offered some of the best vistas of the trip. The trail spent most of its course switchback-ing up the mountainside. The final stretch is the most beautiful with some wonderful sheer drop-offs and endless landscapes.
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| Lost Mine Trail |
Lost Mine trail marked the end of our time in the Park and was a wonderful way to cap off the trip. We were leaving the following morning to make the drive back to Dallas, a long haul for sure.
Big Bend is a wonderful place with plenty to explore. If you like western vistas and hiking then you definitely need to make the drive. If for no other reason you should go just to feel the strange juxtaposition of isolation and yet somehow being surrounded by people. From the time you leave Alpine until you arrive in Terlingua you will not see people. In fact, most of the trip is emptiness, suddenly interrupted by some hamlet and its denizens.
We stayed at the Chisos Mining Company but there are several options available. There is dining in Terlingua, as well as the park, and many of the local accommodations include a small kitchen. A week may be a long trip, four days was perfect for us. However long you have, I highly recommend this trip.
